Brake Upgrade Information

skippy said:
chowetime said:
I must be getting tired read thru all of this and I still did not form any solid info...

Ok so I have a CH sitting in back yard that has all the parts I could ever want - what I am thinking of doing is swapping over the hubs and brakes from the wreck to the CE..

So question is has anyone done this yet...

I have sort of test fitted up the calyper to the CE shock and it is same spacing but the brake lines will need to be specially made up and the 2 bolt hole diameter on the strut will need to be made larger,

I do not know if the knuckle is going to be a match and I do not know the inside diameter were the shafts go...

asking questions to save me time
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If I was you, I would use the caliper off the CH and then run redrilled 276mm 4x114 rotors (assuming your CH down there has the 276mm or whatever), should be a direct swap with just bolting the brake lines into the new caliper. Again you MC will be bigger and again should bolt into the CE. Though I know you want to use the CH's wheels, I can't say I'd know if it'd swap over (the hubs), so i can't help you there... If you were real desperate and wanted to run the CH rims you could use a stud adapter, but I wouldn't trust it tbh.
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Why do you need to redrill?
Just use evo1/2/3 galant vr4 rotors.

People need to think about pad options as well.
If you want to go fast you need to consider what kind of pads are available for that particular setup.
If you want to go slow then do whatever.
 
^^ Coz shes putting them on a Lancer/Mirage with 4x100, if the knuckles dont bolt up.
 
Its the same *poo* people with Ralliart colts do.
They already have Lucas caliper with single piston.
You could do buy some crap Bendix, even a Lucas TRW pad although an excellent pad for street and light track duties does compare to original Pagid pads.
Ive had customers claim that the oem Pagid pad is very good even when abused on the track.
Consider how much they are to replace.

Overall a performance package with such calipers will cost you more.
Imagine you could only get a few brands and the range available is crap, maybe youll be left with a few options for performance pads that cost $300 per axle set.

Another example like using the Magna calipers which can bolt to standard CE/CC hubs.
The disadvantage I see in this is not in the rotors because they are the same spec as evo3 except the stud pattern.
It is the pad. It has smaller surface area and performance options arent there.
 
What about the 294mm rotors, are they worth the additional hassle and the need for 16"+ rims?
Or are they only a small upgrade from the 276mm? As I understand the calipers are the same twin piston
 
Spetz said:
What about the 294mm rotors, are they worth the additional hassle and the need for 16"+ rims?
Or are they only a small upgrade from the 276mm? As I understand the calipers are the same twin piston
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They have more heat capacity due to larger diameter even though same thickness.
Therefore more brake capacity.
Caliper is different because pad placement on a larger rotor.

Piston and seal kit is same as evo3.
 
Sorry Henry I must of worded that incorrectly I was not going to redrill the disc's I was looking at redrilling/resizing the 2 bolt holes on the strut were the caliper bolts into as the hole diameter is bigger on the CH's than the CE struts,

I have two sets of CH rims that I want to use on the CE which have a 4 x 114.3 stud pattern so I was going to swap out the hubs and brakes from a CH onto a CE
 
Hens, is it worth it though to upgrade to 294mm if a car already has the 276mm rotor?
Or is it more hassle/cost than it's worth?
 
Unless you have an evo 6 engine in the car whats the point, you wanna be stopping more than going? 276mm rotors are plenty big for stopping power even with turbo, 294mm is just a waste of money unless your desperate to do it for looks
 
To be honest I prefer 276mm as it allows me to use 15" wheels.
But, I need new rotors/pads and don't want to spend the cash only to realize the brakes aren't up to the job, taking into account I hope to use the car on a track from time to time
 
Front calipers off a magna single spot evo 3 disc's redrilled some good pads and new hoses made up to suit cost me about $250 all up.
Have just put the proton disc setup on the rear and even with the standard master cylinder stops hard. I mean stops in 10m from 80 kph. rear conversion cost me about another $250 all up.
Just brought a 2nd hand mitsubishi gto master off ebay for $105 delivered and they are a 1 1/16" compared to i think 7/8".
So all up cost has been about $600 hope this helps people with some rough price guides
 
Found this fine piece of automotive excellence today



just wondered if any body could tell me if this is a gen 1 and would the rears then be suited to my coupe. For some reason they looked bigger then what I've seen in DIY's but both front and rear seemed like the same size which from the info I've read in this thread that should be the case anyways. The only thing that seemed out of place was a sort of a largest spring attachment on back of caliper which i presume is for the hand break but i don't remember seeing it in any pictures.
Also will the handbrake cables be way to long for a coupe? I've heard of ppl looping up under the carpet but don't know if its a good idea or not.

I can get these for $35 a side full trailing arm and cable but would be interested in any advice or something better to look out for etc.
Cheers.
 

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Yep, its a Gen1. and the rears will suit.

Ian is running the same setup in his Mirage. if you don't touch the caliper. just undo the handbrake cables from the cabin, and under the car. feed them out through the hole under the rear seat. and then undo the 4 or so bolts and holds the trailing arm onto the chassis. It will drop out. then just do the reverse on your car.

removable in 30mins a side if you have easy access to everything (sometimes they put the stands on the trailing arm joint)

Handbrake cables will be a tad long. but if you cross them over in the cabin under the carpet it wont be an issue.

$35 a side is a good deal. Thats the price for just a caliper at PnP.
 
Thanks Tron , 256mm rear end ill have to sit in the garage til i get some evo brakes for the front that would be weird having bigger disc's on the back lol.
Is that what Ian did in his mirage just looped the cables on the floor?
 
its a 260mm rear end. The rear rotors are solid and very thin. Not much braking done back there. It wont look too weird. Id toss em on just to get them outta the way LOL. but up to you.

Ian's running sedan cables in his Rage. if you look under the carpet you'll see the 2 cable come through the chassis under the rear seat/foot well thing. Instead of having the right cable connect to the right side of the handbrake, you cross them over so they make an "X" and so the right cable connects to the left side of the handbrake. it just takes up a bit of slack thats all.

There not much longer. only a bit. you dont have 1m of cable to loop up.
 
260mm sorry, appreciate the advice Tron, ill get down there and get em off tomorrow, for that price its hard to pass up. My brakes are just rubbish at the moment so something got to be done.
 
Yew... my auto answer is working well! Pretty much everything Tron said. Use the whole trailing arm, will make life a whole lot easier.
 
hey mmc, if your brakes are rubbish you'd best upgrade the fronts first since they'd make the real difference, rears are really for "the look" and slightly better braking, but its a good upgrade nonetheless, best of luck with it
 
How are yours going Ian? I'm thinking of maybe doing the same thing thing you did to the front.
What year model magna did your caliper come off.
When you say use the whole trailing arm are you meaning take the whole thing from the wreckers which is what Iam going to do or actually bolt the whole thing in my car?
 
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