Brake Upgrade Information

lilandonaki said:
Spetz said:
FTO is 5 stud not 4 stud.
And if you use the FTO hub/knuckle the camber will be wrong. The LCA is 18mm longer on an FTO and would fix the camber issues but make the wheels stick further out by a bit.

You should also mention that when going from rear drum to disc you should get a prop valve from an FTO or such otherwise (like it was on my car) the brake distribution is 91/9 whereas ideally I think 70/30 is desired.
Also, changing the brake master cylinder if going twin pots. Either 15/16" or 1" but the booster may need to be changed as well I believe for this to work.

Thanks for that, i thought something was missing regarding the FTO swap.

Is the valve necessary when any drum is converted to disc?

It will work with the existing brake valve but the rear brakes will be doing almost no work so it's a good idea to use one from an FTO.
When I took my car over the pits, it was going to fail because of the rear brakes being overly weak, but I was sneaky and pulled the handbrake up while no one was watching.
 
You dont need to change the booster,
Master cylinder only is only and braking feel will be fine.
This one is up to preference.

I myself use an EVO4 booster in a Mirage.
 
lilandonaki said:
  • Mitsubishi FTO entire front suspension is bolt in (unsure if LCA is needed) (easiest to just grab everything from the rear, it will all bolt in, keep in mind that the swaybar attaches to the strut and spring combo (which you will also need))

  • Eh?
 
I noticed that on my car (which has an FTO master cylinder) the bolts on the actual cylinder are angled whereas on stock Lancers the bolts mount horizontally

Hens said:
You dont need to change the booster,
Master cylinder only is only and braking feel will be fine.
This one is up to preference.

I myself use an EVO4 booster in a Mirage.
 
skippy said:
lilandonaki said:
  • Mitsubishi FTO entire front suspension is bolt in (unsure if LCA is needed) (easiest to just grab everything from the rear, it will all bolt in, keep in mind that the swaybar attaches to the strut and spring combo (which you will also need))

  • Eh?


  • Copy & pasting without checking the information :oops: haha

    Thanks Skip! a few minor formatting changes, and it'll look great!
 
just a quick question, will the t-k e/f/h/j magna-rada v6 brakes fit a CE 2 door? (going 5 stud)

i have a set of oem TH magna front knuckles, calipers and rotors available and was wondering if i could put them to good use.

it mentioned earlier that the t-k r/s v6 setup would work, but nothing about the newer model magna parts.
 
Newer magna knuckles will have wider caliper bracket bolt spacing. Same bolt spacing as brembos and evo4-9.

You can use fto or evo knuckles from 4-6 but in most cases you may have to use matching lower control arms so you can mount the swaybar end links and or come across alignment issues due to the difference in wheel track from model to model.

Henry
 
Trondabron said:
magna rotors are the exact same spec as EVO, except 5 stud, so same scenario as EVO.
or same as FTO Mivec only the front though.
EVo1-3 Front and FTO Mivec Front
 
I have Evo III/VR4 knuckles and they do not work well. There is a camber problem and bumpsteer issues too
 
I have done an FTO front caliper conversion.
Vehicle - CE GLXi 1.8
Running 17" rims.
Used FTO MIVEC twin pot calipers and rotors. Calipers bolted straight to lancer hub pattern, but had the rotors redrilled to 4 X 100 at a machine shop to fit. Didn't change the master cylinder and have no adverse affects on brake pedal height or ability.
 
Spetz said:
Dawn16, did you get the 5 stud rotors redrilled?
And what was the cost?
Jackson Baker Engineering. Nowra.
But any engineering shop should be able to do it. Just tell them the sizes required. The alternative is buying DBA hats with the correct stud pattern and then purchasing the rotors you desire.
5000 XS series.
http://www.dba.com.au/products/street-heavey-duty
Plain, slotted, crossdrilled and slotted and cross drilled. I looked into this when doing the V6 MIVEC conversion but funding this was expensive. Getting the rotors redrilled was much cheaper. $40.00 cash price. Friday afternoon job ;)
 
There is more room to redrill on gallant vr4 / evo1-3 rotors being 4x114.3.
Buying blanks don't make a difference because the centrebore is still wrong.
 
Hens said:
There is more room to redrill on gallant vr4 / evo1-3 rotors being 4x114.3.
Buying blanks don't make a difference because the centrebore is still wrong.

My point was buy blank hats to suit CE lancer pattern, hence giving the correct centrebore and stud pattern, then buy the rotors to suit the caliper application. Check the link. 5000XS hats will give the correct result.
 
Dawn16 said:
Hens said:
There is more room to redrill on gallant vr4 / evo1-3 rotors being 4x114.3.
Buying blanks don't make a difference because the centrebore is still wrong.

My point was buy blank hats to suit CE lancer pattern, hence giving the correct centrebore and stud pattern, then buy the rotors to suit the caliper application. Check the link. 5000XS hats will give the correct result.
I see what you mean.
Use a 2-piece rotor and obtain the centre piece with 4x100 and 64mm bore.
A very expensive option. Given that most people are reluctant to even purchase performance brake pads buying an even more expensive 2-piece rotor will be negligible for increased braking performance.
Brake upgrade costs are better invested in better pads.

DBA also make the 276mm rotor in a 4x100 with part number DBA402B. However the centrebore is still 69mm, not 64mm. Also the price is very exxy.
I sell the 276mm rotors in both slotted or plain, predrilled to 4x100 but also do cnc machined hubcentric rings so the rotors sit true on the hub.
You buy the rings once and use them for the lifetime of the brakes.
 
Henry, how would you compare the different DBA rotor options?
ie, the gold, the standard, slotted etc?
And is it worth the money to get the Golds?
 
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