I'm still having this issue. I change the oil ( I put in thinner oil ) problem goes away. A few thousand kays and the issue comes back until I change the oil again. I even changed the leads back to my old ones to see if this was causing some sort of strange issue but no, only changing the oil works. If you have new lifters and they aren't noisy maybe it is a dodgy knock sensor?
I've also changed to a Sard fuel pressure regulator (This is supposed to fix the Satria GTI flat spot off the line, and it appears to) .. still doesn't stop the issue with the car feeling like a slug again a few thousand kays after the oil change.
The problem with the idle sounds like what happened to me after I changed the leads. I'd pulled off one of the vaccum lines as it was getting in the way. Drove around the block and the idle was erratic. Had a look and realised what I had done.
This sounds odd but it appears that the weather can affect how it is running too. If it is cool and the car has warmed up it appears to run ok again....
This problem occurred after getting a whole heap of work done at a mechanic. The motor was ripped out seals replaced and a whole bunch of stuff. I'm sure it will be something simple but since I got totally ripped off by the mechanic I'm doing all the work on my car myself (Well unless I know I'll need a hoist).
I read on some Malaysian forum of a way to fix the issue with the idle (if it's not the vaccum line). I did it nt long after getting ripped off by the mechanic. I skipped the voltage meter and timing stuff as I don't have a voltage meter and have no idea with the timing (though I do wonder if the issue with my car is the timing as my friendly neighbourhood ripoff mechanic changed the timing belt)..... (I did this even though it is for a 1.6 Wira cos I figured it couldn't hurt)...
I only did from "2) Turn OFF engine"....
Link is here :
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/728246/all
Here is what you need;
1) flat or Phillips screw driver
2) or no. 8 spanner
3) digital volt meter (must be digital)
Firstly, check the followings;
1) timing set to 12° BTDC (variable range is 8° - 18°) you can set to proper value after adjustment depending on the fuel U use
2) make sure TB Servo is working properly (hot start engine should rev above 1000RPM then drop below that after a couple of seconds)
MUST;
a) set to proper timing of 12° BTDC if not done
b) if TB Servo not working, have it changed
Without meeting a) & b) requirements, this adjustment procedure won't work.
After that, here is the easy part;
1) Start your engine or turn car key to ON position
- measure TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) the 2 green terminals
- variable range must be between 0.5 - 0.95 volts, U try which value is suitable for your car, mind is 0.5 - 0.6 (nice & stable)
2) Turn OFF engine, make sure car key is in OFF position
- turn the air bleed screw all the way clockwise until it locks, not tight - just lock
3) Start the engine & let it run for a minute or so
- engine should open the idle servo to compensate for the lack of air
- engine should automatically rev to >1000RPM then steadily drop to 600/700RPM
4) Engine still running after 1 minute (take your time, let the engine figure out what to do)
- turn air bleed screw 1 full turn anti-clockwise
- engine should again rev >1000RPM then drop to 700RPM or so
5) Let it run a minute or so again
- now ON air-con
- engine should react immediately to the extra load
- ON & OFF air-con a couple of times between intervals of 30 second or so
6) You may turn the air bleed anti-clockwise more, if air-con idle too low
- range is usually 1 - 2.5 turns anti-clockwise
* You are done
If I ever get this problem solved I'll come back here and let you know...