CE mirage sleeper

For the rear disc, I'm pretty sure you can get the FTO rear disc and have a brake work shop or engineering work shop redrill the hub from the 4x114.3/5x114.3 to the 4x100. As its a different stud pattern theres no issue with redrilling it, it'll all still be balanced etc.
I'll definitely keep that in mind as an option. I'd ideally like to just use off the shelf components where possible just for ease of getting replacements.


This matches my recollection, but I think if you separate the hub from the trailing arm you might need to replace the hub. I think it's a single-use press fit, and removing it may damage it; and I think that's why people say "just get the whole trailing arm setup".

Which, from the perspective of saving on interstate postage, might be a better saving anyway. If you're gonna get new oem hubs locally anyway, then they can leave those out of the shipment and just sent the brackets, dust shields, calipers, rotors, etc. And if you can get new oem rotors locally, that could be another heavy thing that doesn't need to be shipped interstate.
Would that essential mean you could press in a 4x114 hub in place of a 4x100? Could be an easy option to change stud pattern no matter what route I go brakes wise.

I've got a pretty well equipped workshop at home (been in the auto industry my whole life) so pressing hubs back in is not a stress, and I work weekends at Repco, so staff pricing helps keep costs of readily available parts down.
 
If you’re not in too much of a hurry for rear discs get on to Ausproton and their sales page.
It’s my go to group for proton stuff.
Check it out and put up a WTB if you like.
 
This matches my recollection, but I think if you separate the hub from the trailing arm you might need to replace the hub. I think it's a single-use press fit, and removing it may damage it; and I think that's why people say "just get the whole trailing arm setup".

Which, from the perspective of saving on interstate postage, might be a better saving anyway. If you're gonna get new oem hubs locally anyway, then they can leave those out of the shipment and just sent the brackets, dust shields, calipers, rotors, etc. And if you can get new oem rotors locally, that could be another heavy thing that doesn't need to be shipped interstate.
I've had my rear trailing arms apart and have been using them for a good year or more with no issue, they're not press fit, just a nut under the dust cap. You can buy all the fto rear suspension, and then simply unbolt your 4x100 rear hub from your existing trailing arm, and swap it over to the fto control arm if you want to stay 4 stud. I've just picked up a rear end from an fto down here in SA and can confirm it all swaps over nicely. Then you would just need some proton satria gti rear brake rotors and your set!

As for the rest of the car, can always get coil overs but keep the stock height, allows adjustable dampers and stiffer springs without attracting attention. But if you really want a go kart you'll want to be a bit lower than factory to keep your centre of gravity down.
 
If you’re not in too much of a hurry for rear discs get on to Ausproton and their sales page.
It’s my go to group for proton stuff.
Check it out and put up a WTB if you like.
Thanks, I've sent a request to join, I'll keep my fingers crossed! The set of front and rears I thought I'd secured turned out to be a drum rear end :disappointed:


I've had my rear trailing arms apart and have been using them for a good year or more with no issue, they're not press fit, just a nut under the dust cap. You can buy all the fto rear suspension, and then simply unbolt your 4x100 rear hub from your existing trailing arm, and swap it over to the fto control arm if you want to stay 4 stud. I've just picked up a rear end from an fto down here in SA and can confirm it all swaps over nicely. Then you would just need some proton satria gti rear brake rotors and your set!
That's some very helpful info thank you! Do you know if an fto or magna handbrake cable can be used with a proton handbrake assembly by any chance? Found some rear calipers and dust shields but no cables and a new set is 170 delivered from the UK from what I'm seeing online..


As for the rest of the car, can always get coil overs but keep the stock height, allows adjustable dampers and stiffer springs without attracting attention. But if you really want a go kart you'll want to be a bit lower than factory to keep your centre of gravity down.
My concern with coilovers is having an overzealous cop notice them and decide to check out everything else with a bit more detail, particularly if there's an engine that isn't engineered to the car in it at some point.
 
yeah, pretty much, I managed to make the coupe cables fit my sedan the first time round, and the fto cables are a good 20cm shorter than coupe ones, but i'm sure they would all be fine. Only thing is, you will need the handbrake cables specific to the brakes. so if you are using disk brakes, the cable is different to the drum brakes. just make sure you also grab the bracket that joins the brake calliper to the arm as well.

can always get 'stealth' mca option coilovers, or put the rubber cap from the old suspension over the new coilovers to hide them. otherwise get some kyb excel g shocks and king low springs if you want decent performance with legality
 
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