RPW Master Cylinder no clutch vacuum line

Got a 1 1/16" master cylinder from RPW however there appears to be no vacuum line for the clutch and now my clutch isn't going to operate. How do I make a new line? Can I backbone it off the brake booster vacuum line somehow?FB_IMG_1686371570106.jpg
 

Attachments

  • FB_IMG_1686371565149.jpg
    FB_IMG_1686371565149.jpg
    251.6 KB · Views: 3
Just for clarity, that’s not a vac line, it’s a fluid line. Both masters share the same reservoir. You need to bring your old reservoir over to the new master - the replacement is wrong.

Definitely contact the supplier and let them know before you pull it apart!
 
Just for clarity, that’s not a vac line, it’s a fluid line. Both masters share the same reservoir. You need to bring your old reservoir over to the new master - the replacement is wrong.

Definitely contact the supplier and let them know before you pull it apart!
Ah ok cheers for clarifying that for me mate much appreciated! So it's as simple to just swap the reservoir over? Wonder why it didn't come already prepped but no biggy. I'll definitely send RPW an email and see what is required. As far as their website shows it's mostly a direct replacement
 
Yeah there’s a pin that goes through the res and master, slide that out and then wiggle the res away from the master. It will be snug due to the 2 seals.
 
Very odd.. whats the reason for replacing? Assuming upgrade?
For better braking as the brakes aren't very good on these cars just need it to stop better. I've got braided lines front and rear. Slotted and dimpled rotors on the front, am sourcing twin piston calipers for the front as well. Mainly needing better brake pressure from the car because brake fade gets bad and pressure is horrible it takes a lot to stop even in traffic. I just want it safer
 
For the time being I've put the original master cylinder in to have it drivable than I'll look into getting the bigger master cylinder fitted and a reservoir for the clutch as well. Need my car for tomorrow
 
How much bigger is the replacement master? I had zero issues with mine stock and now with 326mm discs still no faults.

Usually brake fade is from a poor pad/rotor that can’t handle the heat.

Poor pressure does sound like a symptom of a failing master.

Twin piston MAY help the issue, but I wouldnt have looked at it as a solution. The biggest benefit is the indirect effect of having a new range of pads to choose from. I have 4 piston up front, but that’s a factor of having the bigger rotor/disc.

I don’t know that there is a standalone res for a CH that’s bolt on for the clutch. I would really chase up the supplier of your master… Let us know if you find one, good to have in the books for future reference.
 
Sorry if I come across a bit blunt also^

Thinking more, could be a seized piston in a brake caliper…

You could take it past a workshop with a Safe-T-Stop, and you’d find out very quickly the issues in your car.
 
How much bigger is the replacement master? I had zero issues with mine stock and now with 326mm discs still no faults.

Usually brake fade is from a poor pad/rotor that can’t handle the heat.

Poor pressure does sound like a symptom of a failing master.

Twin piston MAY help the issue, but I wouldnt have looked at it as a solution. The biggest benefit is the indirect effect of having a new range of pads to choose from. I have 4 piston up front, but that’s a factor of having the bigger rotor/disc.

I don’t know that there is a standalone res for a CH that’s bolt on for the clutch. I would really chase up the supplier of your master… Let us know if you find one, good to have in the books for future reference.
I'm not sure what factory bore is but the new one i got is the biggest RPW offer which is the 1 1/16th" all the pistons seem to move and bled the brakes in the correct order according to the workshop manual but air must be getting in somewhere. I've replaced all the brake lines with braided ones and have bled the master clyinder as well which helped a teeny bit still barely have a pedal despite all new pads and rotors not long ago. Rotors are DBA branded with standard on the back and slotted and dimpled on the front. Pads I'm running are Remsa pads which are good in hot and cold. I eventually would like to put bigger brakes on the car. Maximum size is still factory 276mm on the front I believe. Twin piston calipers should make a difference in the future as well. The supplier RPW got back to me and suggested to get a universal clutch reservoir and should be golden
 
Sorry if I come across a bit blunt also^

Thinking more, could be a seized piston in a brake caliper…

You could take it past a workshop with a Safe-T-Stop, and you’d find out very quickly the issues in your car.
Don't stress mate I know you're helping man so all good :)

I know a good local brake place dad has been going to since he was 16 I'll pick their brains and book my car in when i can and get them to look at it and also fit the bigger master cylinder with a clutch reservoir as well and should be pretty good
 
Back
Top