My evo wheel and cluster on ch!

[lancerwill]

So I put these in ages ago just getting round to showing it, it was very simple and had no issues was just plug and play

 

[lancerwill]

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[ABS]

Nice work. The Evo cluster looks bawwws!!
Is the wheel plug/play straight swap over?

 

[Evan Elliott]

Hey mate im looking at getting an evo 8 cluster. The kms stay on the cluster yer? If so how much did it cost to get changed if you bothered at all that is. Thanks

 

[wagonmaster]

Both the evo 7/8 wheel and dash are a straight swap, fit them yourself and save $$$

Yes the KLMS stay in the evo/standard dash's memory, you can get the klms reset, i don't know what they would charge for that?

I got my evo7 wheel from the USA complete with airbag, i was a bit worried that the airbag would cause a problem at USPS mail sorting , but no it arrived 8 days later and cost about $110 AUS landed in aust. No sure if aussie post / airlines are keen on delivering them from what i read. Expect to pay about $50 - $80 for a wheel in decent condition and about $120-$160 for an airbag assembly, so its cheaper by far to buy them together as a package. Just make sure when you get around to fitting it that your wheels are pointing dead straight ahead and be careful not to upset the clockspring under the wheel for obvious reasons.

As far as fitting up the evo wheel goes if you are lucky someone may have refitted your standard ch wheel before and saved you a lot of grief, if not you may ponder as to why Mitsubishi employed 500 lb SUMO Wrestlers to fit this bolt in the steering wheels at the factory.
So you will need:

• to disconnect the battery and wait about 20 mins before starting this quest.
• to unplug the horn and airbag connectors after removing the side panel
• a really good/v/good quality hex key to undo the retaining hex bolt at the side on the s/wheel,
• a cold beer or a JD
• Mitsubishi decided to recess this bolt just out of reach of my long 1/2 socket drive hex key (of course) so unless you have a really long one revert to plan "B" below.
• (plan B)To make it easier for yourself and to save yourself using words you never knew existed get yourself a small length of pipe to slip over the hex key, i used the two piece handle from a small hydraulic jack, place it over the hex key and apply what feels like 300 ft lbs pressure to undo the little bastard,
• once you hear the thread break (hopefully not literally) and give way then use the aforementioned "cold beer" or "JD" because by that time you will need one.
• When you settle down just remove the standard wheel and refit the evo wheel, being mindful of the clockspring, then plug in the horn and airbag plugs via the side panel (which you removed earlier of course) and you are finished.
• when car wont start then reconnect battery.

Now the dash is just a plug and play, i fitted one to mine its straight forward, i ended up removing it after about 6 mths because i didn't like the dash lights coming on all the time when the ignition was on (not sure if this is a standard evo feature but when retro fitting it to my 04 CH they stay on constantly day or night when the ign is on), this seemed to burn out the dash bulbs way quicker resulting in dark patches around my gauges at night where the bulbs were out, it became annoying having to remove it every time i needed to replaced the bulbs, other than that it was good. I ended getting another dash, a JDM type Ralliart dash with chrome surrounds which doesn't have that problem.

 

[chowetime]

nice write up... did you have the Cruise control on your car if you did how did you go about adjusting for that.....

 

[wagonmaster]

Hi chowetime, no cruise control fitted, my ch was produced in late 04 and didn't have it as standard fitment, i believe from what i read it's just a matter of fabricating a small bracket/modify the bracket and fitting it up during assembly to the position you want it in.

maybe another member who has done evo s/wheel conversion to ch with cruise control can jump in and confirm?