Re: CH Lancer Turbo Build
XxOLIVERxX said:
okayy well me and dad are thinkin of turbo'ing my lancer as like a father-son project..
thinkin of buying this kit:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/KIT-TURBO-MI...2365?pt=JG_FR_Auto_Pièces&hash=item27ab1c70cd
use google translate cuz its in french lol
what else would be needed to get it up and going?
downpipe ,air intake, cat converter,bigger injectors? etc
going to be runnning around 6-10 psi boost so wont be be doing internal mods..
thanks alot for any help
sorry just quoting so i can read the post while i type.
you NEED a manifold that will fit your engine, this is one of the most important things. i have no idea what the engine is in your lancer but make sure you have a manifold that is made for it. ive never heard of a universal manifold but its safe to say it would suck aids for flow.
after my research with ebay kits i have learnt a few things.
you do get what you pay for (no im not a douche bag who drives an na car who thinks i know everything because i read it online without modding my own car)
it will be a good basic starter to build on (remembering that you will need a manifold to suit your car) but with ebay kits there are some weak links
it is an ebay turbo so do not expect it to last anywere near as long as a turbonetics / precision / garrett / hks bla bla bla. the turbo is a weak link and will 90% chance need to be replaced with a decent one
blow off valve may also be a weak point and might get a boost leak through it... i dont like them anyway take that *poo* off because dose is your friend.
most ebay manifolds suck ass and will crack after a while and need to be rewelded and eventually you will end up cracking the *poo*s with it and replacing it
and the boost controller. i replaced my *poo* cheap ebay one before it even got a chance to see my car. a turbonetics boost tee is like 100 bucks buy yourself one of them for good insurance. boost spiking on a stock engine = disaster lol
Also keep your eyes out on the oil lines, im running an ebay oil line kit and its fine but ive heard of some bad quality ones. last thing you want to do after doing a turbo conversion is to be looking for an oil leak somewere.. trust me i know this
So thats the info on the kit.
It looks like the kit comes with a dump pipe but 99.99999% of the time it will not bolt to your already existing exhaust so you will need to get an exhaust shop to finish the exhaust.. no idea how much power your engine will make with 10 psi through it but if its any more then 160 - 180 horsepower at the wheels will need atleast a 2.5 inch exhaust. that ofcause means you need a new cat aswell to suit the size also mufflers etc .
injectors are a big yes. probably need around 440 injectors for 10 psi.. thats what im running and im getting up to 95% and with aftermarket injectors they say try not to run them over 80 ish.
you may also need a fuel pump, im still running my stock honda fuel pump and its fine but im not sure what your stock pump is like, will be good insurance to spend the 200 bucks on one of these just incase you need it
air intake should come with the turbo kit if not its just some piping and a pod filter, easy
you will also have to tap a drain line from the turbo into your sump, this is usually pretty straight foward just get a drill and drill a hole as high as you can in the sump without damaging *poo* inside and weld a bung in, learn by my mistake and run it as far from the dump pipe as possible or you will be in serious trouble
(DO NOT DO IT LIKE THIS... lol)
also not sure if this turbo is water and oil cooled or just oil cooled.. if it is water cooled you need to run water lines aswell. just use the coolant lines that run through your throttle body, reroute them through the turbo instead and you will kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
then ofcause the biggest part of a turbo car is tuning. put away 1000 bucks for an ecu, dont go cheap and get a piggy back go full stand alone. then atleast 600 for the tuning dont be a cheap *top bloke* and try to budget this part with tuners you get what you pay for. if you get a quote from a legit shop for 700 dollars for a dyno tune and little john paul down the road will offer you a road tune for 300 dollars out of his backyard make sure you go with the real shop. you just sunk 2 - 3 grand into your engine you dont want it fked up by a backyard mechanic who thinks he can tune because he has the program on his mums laptop.
these are not needed but recommended by myself for safety.
water temp gauge (i learnt that stock ones suck.. my needle on my cluster will stay on the same position when my water temp gauge is from 86 - 105 degrees..
aem uego wide band and afr gauge - its not needed and the tuner will use his / her own when tuning your car to make sure its spot on but i love the insurance it gives.. you have the chance to save your car if you have a problem if it leans all the way out without you noticing. lean + turbo = bang
i dont have oil temp / pressure but would also be good insurance if you plan on taking it on a track day or something, without an oil cooler i heard on ozhonda the oil gets really hot after 3 or 4 laps of Wakefield park so its a good idea to know when to have a cool down lap
oil cooler would be a good move too, again i dont have one but would be a wise move to get one because now the oil is moving through an insanely hot engine and also an insanely hot turbo. think of your headers x 10 lol
bigger and better radiator is always a wise move too, colder thermo stat, colder fan switch anything to keep the temps down.
turbos change everything and make it a totally different car.. prepare to have fk loads of fun and torquesteer, best mod ive done to my car so far
