LANCER FTO CONVERSION HELP

C

ChickenCode

New Member
I am currently in the middle of doing the 6a12 mivec conversion into a 2001 ce lancer.

I am having trouble with the wiring side of things and need some advice when it comes to splicing the interior loom of the lancer into the fto engine loom. Any help would be much appreciated

Thanks
 
Most people have used the fto interior loom as well, and transferred the entire dash across. Splicing lancer wiring for the washer bottle, indicators, brake lights, etc. in.

I’ve got my 6a12 on a stand atm, when I get to putting it in, i’ll Let you know how I go.
 
im about to embark on this as well, ive only gotten the engine loom (wiring between engine and the ecu and the wiring from there to the shifter(was auto) i do have the coded key reader and key that match the ecu. hopefully it all goes somewhat smoothly, im not looking foward to anything realy lol except the results =D
 
anyone know how to do the splicing?

ive got the engine bolted out and the looms from the 6a12 and 1.5 mirage.

My understanding is I need to match every wire from the mirage dash to the 6a12 ECU?

leaving everything from the 6a12 engine side untouched and cutting out the 4g15 engine side wires?

can anyone confirm this is the basic idea?
 
speakas said:
anyone know how to do the splicing?

ive got the engine bolted out and the looms from the 6a12 and 1.5 mirage.

My understanding is I need to match every wire from the mirage dash to the 6a12 ECU?

leaving everything from the 6a12 engine side untouched and cutting out the 4g15 engine side wires?

can anyone confirm this is the basic idea?
Click to expand...

Leave mirage body loom for lights and power ect.
Use 6a12 wiring on the engine to the ecu. Trace out the dash/cluster wiring across the dashboard. This also includes the a/c switch. Lay these under the dash and viola. Find your CE fuel pump wire to the g15 ecu and join this to the 6a wiring.

6a ecu will also need powers and earth. Take these from the CE ecu loom

I am not familiar with FTO and CE immobiliser setups as I havent owned one for years. Wiring diagram will help you here.
 
yeh im up to the wiring part as well yay = /, hving issues with the abs side of things, as the mirage had one, dont think the fto did, as well as going from auto to manual, means ive got alot of extra wires that arent used = /
 
ive done most of the wires from connector B36 and B35 on the mirage.

Some strange bits like the diagnotics wires from the ECU not exactly matching my manual.

Trying to work out the ecu power earth and fuel pump wiring as SDate42 mentioned.
also need to work out the FTO auto to manual conversion, from what i can tell i dont think my reverse lights are gonna work unless i have the proper switches for it.

will i need a key to match the ecu? im just running whatever my mirage had and hope it will play well with the FTO ecu.
 
the key and the ecu must match, otherwise u wont get any spark/fuel injectors.
im currently re-pinning the boddy plug from the engine loom. (the big one under batery box)
then next to tackle is inside and get the dash loom sorted(the extra plugs on the ecu limb(part of the loom)
then i think its just cutting out alot of the auto box stuff, then turning key and hoping for the best hahaha
 
@Morph
Provided your fto ecu is from a manual, the conversion is simpler. The reverse light switch is on the gearbox instead of in the selector. There will be no need to bypass the Park/Neutral inhibitor switch either. You are very correct in just removing most of that loom. The centre console section (to the cig light ect) is different manual to auto, but that shouldnt be an issue in the slightest.
 
I think i have completed the splice.

i did however bypass the inhibitor switch.

ill see how it goes over the next few days when i plug everything in, hoping it goes well.
 
unfortunatly i only have access to a auto ecu.
the other issue i ran into was the standard lancer gearbox has starter moter on the back the fto one is on the front.
anyone know if u can get away with just futting a starter motor sized hole, drilling the metal for bolt holes and run it that way ?
id like to spend 400ish on more mods instead of a gearbox.
 
I thought that the gearboxes had provision for both starter motor locations?
Just as an FYI, using the 1.8 gearbox will mean a low final drive, which means slower acceleration.
Higher revving, low torque engines work best with higher final drives, so an FTO gearbox would be a substantial "mod" over a stock Lancer one and would yield you a faster accelerating car than anything else that $400 could possibly get you
 
I'm running a manual ecu and am having problems.

Won't seem to engage the starter so going to check wiring for that.

I've been told running an auto ECU with auto harness works better than auto harness and manual ecu.

Yeah gearbox I'm using the 1.8 lancer, most cost effective.

You probably could drill the holes but it would be harder than just getting a.gearbox that fits.
 
Did the 1.8 lancer love starters to the front ???
I'm not too worryed about top speed. It's a mirage hatch after all. Actually considering going awd. If I can find the right gearbox dif combo
 
Morph said:
Did the 1.8 lancer love starters to the front ???
I'm not too worryed about top speed. It's a mirage hatch after all. Actually considering going awd. If I can find the right gearbox dif combo
Click to expand...

1.8L had two starter motor locations in the box. will be fine for 6a12.

AWD is a lot of work and adds a lot of weight. probably be wasted on a 6a12.
but if you do, being in NZ, you got access to the good stuff.

box and transfer from a v6 legnum or galant or CM5A gsr and gsr front shafts/arms/knuckles etc
rear end from a CM5A gsr lancer (including floor) or evo1-3. you'll need a shortened tailshaft. that will keep it within factory guards too. it will convert it to 4x114.3 instead of 4x100.

Evo 5-6 stuff will push it out to suit a widebody. and requires much more work in the rear. evo 4 will keep it narrow but requires the same floor pan mods at normal 5-6 evo
 
so its possable to find a 1.8 with a front mounted starter motor?
theres a multitude of reasons why i wanna go awd, ones better handeling(nz is icy) the others to help negate the massive chunk of weight infront of front axel espicaly with lancer/mirages which are already known to be front heavy

i was told ages ago that the mirages have the bolt holes for the rear diff already there stamped u just need to weld in the captive nuts and bolt it up, re-enforcing is adivesed.

can anyone confirm ?

if the above is a rumor whats the go with the cyborg ? are they a one off floorpan ?
 
all 1.8 gearbox has two starter motor locations, which one of it suits the 6a12.

when i flick my switch to on position, i can hear something engaging and running, cant tell if its the fuel pump or injectors.

anyone can shed some light?
 
Pics of 6a12 with gearbox from a 4g93. Just need the starter motor from the FTO that goes in the lower front, instead of the upper rear.

I have the FTO box, but got some incorrect information and found out too late. Still mated box up to take pics for sheets and giggles.

Casing for both boxes were identical.
 

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got my engine running, turns out i forgot to carry the starter motor relay plug from the mirage harness over to the fto harness.

the v6 roar sounds majestic. time to finish this up

just got to sort out the throttle cable, radiator hoses, alternator needs to be extended to reach the alternator, and figure out what to do for the aircond lines to make it fit properly.

5 stud conversion to follow if my nimbus is a suitable donor for the hubs.
 
Nice work, and good to hear you figured it out.

I'd be surprised if the Nimbus stuff works.

Also keep in mind some things physically fit and work, however have their own set of issues.
For example I used Evo III knuckles for the brake setup and though it worked it created extremely bad bumpsteer
 
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