LANCER CH PARTS AND EVO PARTS SWAP GUIDE PART 1.

wagonmaster

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Part 1 :>>>> sorry had to make this a 2 part post due to the 10,000 character rule

I thought i would put together a post on part swapping with the lancer EVO models to help answer any questions or to create discussions on members possible upcoming swaps for LANCER CH > ES, VRX, EXCEED, LIMITED EDITION SEDANS AND WAGONS including CG models

Note: All this information below has been sourced by me from personal trial and error with Lancers owned by myself and other family members over the years and also from other information around the web.

SUSPENSION & STEERING:
· Steering rack - tighter ratio

· The Evo struts run a camber bolt setup that if you read the book has two settings at 1 degree and 2degree’s of camber pending the direction of the arrow on the bolt. The factory stock Lancer camber is aprox 0.5 and the lancer uses a slotted style strut and standard bolt.

· The Evo front struts (Evo KYB units & Bilsteins/Eibach springs) do indeed bolt right up to the ES & VRX sedan/wagon as long as you do some mods.

1. The standard front units, Black in colour are the basic EVO suspension that comes from the factory, the units are made by KYB suspension, and are rated h/duty.

2. The Bilstein units (yellow) and the red Eibach springs are the optional ones which are accessory available in what’s called a handling pack, comes in a package with other mods at a hefty price tag of $$$$ extra on top of base price.

3. The mods required to fit these are while simple, but are still a pain to fit, I run these on the front of my wagon, but sedan is identical fitment. You can go 2 ways with these, if you want you can go the easy way and just use the standard ch lancer coil spring tops and strut tops (slipper bearing) only catch is you can’t use the Eibach springs as the top of these springs are conical in shape, so will not fit standard ch lancer tops you will need to purchase standard CG/CH lowering springs (tein/peddlers/lovells say 30mm to 40mm would be fine, this may give you just a little more pre tension thats all.

The second way is to purchase a BC racing/peddlers extreme coilover top strut mount, the one with the bearing, its centre is 14mm, trouble is Bilstein shocks mount top threaded stud is 17mm, so you need to remove the bilstein cartridge from the strut body and get the top machined down to 14mm to fit the coilover strut top bearing plate, that way you can then use the genuine EVO eibach spring top to accept the Eibach conical spring, base is same.

I can’t yet confirm if the standard EVO strut tops (the KYB) type has the correct 17mm hole (as i had none to compare, but i don’t think so), or if it is the standard 14mm size? But i did the machining to fit mine (cost $25 per insert to get done at local machine shop)

· But be aware that different spring rates are applicable between the different Evo year models, so this will give you different ride heights.

· The EVO’s are over 200kg heavier than the CG/CH sedans/wagons, but as the weight is distributed over 4 wheels (diff %) this would only make a small difference to ride height, but would be a 30mm to 50mm drop (don’t forget that these are the shorten body shocks with modified dampening curve with the correct eibach springs to match this, so this is not a concern) but this height will vary, weight distribution per wheel plays a big part as well, but you can get the Eibach springs reset if you find the need to.

(HINT): Aim for a second hand set of Low Klm Evo factory/Bilstein Struts/springs, most of them for sale on ebay/gumtree are usually low klm and range from $100-$500 for set of four for Mit Evo KYB stock units to Bilsteins, not bad for a $2000++ setup!

· EVO Rear shocks and Eibach springs –the EVO IX series 2 and EVO X bolt straight up to the bottom mount holes, but shocks are different length (way to long for a wagon or sedan i imagine)

So forget the shock, you can modify the bottom coil spring mount on a standard H/D or standard shock or find a h/d rear shock, correct length with the right mount to fit to fit the Eibach lower tail, then they will fit fine so then you can use the Eibach rear springs and standard Mitsubishi CG/CH strut top mounts.

· Front lower control arm evo 7,8,9 fits on lancer 04 ES etc.

· sway bar - end links are different from memory

· Rear strut bars - they may not work since the evo rear struts are higher than the lancer, maybe wagons are an exception? Not sure never tried it.

· Evo steering rack works, but it is a tighter turning ratio, hmmmm.

· Interior stuff like seats and door panels, dash trim and centre console and steering wheel (evo8) also work on the lancer

· For a smoother ride, the ES lancers have the same strut suspension setup as the VRX, all made by KYB, the VRX have the same struts F&R (small variation in wagon), springs just 25mm lower and slightly heavier than stock ES ones.

INTERIOR:
· Stock interior - door panels, centre console, dash, trim, vents

· Evo 8/9 seats and brackets bolt right in to 02-07 lancers.

· Consoles Ok swap

SEE 2nd. POST to continue >>>>>>>>>>
 
In sedans, the rear seats are not directly compatible. The back has the exact same dimensions, however the mounting brackets are in a different place and need to be modified. Evo rears have head rests and an armrest built in.

The base is nearly twice as thick in the Evo, and I struggled to get the brackets to slot into place. I'm going to retrim the base with the Evo colours to match, as the bases have no different features.
 
Can the front interior roof light that you find on the Evo's and wagons be installed in the ES sedan easily enough?
 
Can the front interior roof light that you find on the Evo's and wagons be installed in the ES sedan easily enough?

Just as easily as any other map light from another Mitsubishi or any brand car. Not overly difficult, but it involves pulling the head lining off, cutting a section out for your new light and then running power/earth up to the unit.
 
Just as easily as any other map light from another Mitsubishi or any brand car. Not overly difficult, but it involves pulling the head lining off, cutting a section out for your new light and then running power/earth up to the unit.
Would the mounts already be there so it can just screw in though?
 
Totally didn't think about needing to screw it in lol.. in my mirage I used spring clips pressed into the roof lining to hold the map light in place. And then some sika when it fell out.

If you give it a go, let us know if the holes are there, but I doubt it.
 
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