I am running Mini Cooper discs and CH calipers as well. Super easy swap, everything bolts straight up and the brake line/hose fits straight on.
Pedal travel is a little longer, but I honestly think that is down to not bleeding them as well as I could have. I will re-bleed in the next week or so and see how it feels then.

I suspected that CH calipers would bolt onto a CE hub. So I’m correct in saying that CH calipers have 130mm bolt spacing and will still run 276mm rotors?
 
I suspected that CH calipers would bolt onto a CE hub. So I’m correct in saying that CH calipers have 130mm bolt spacing and will still run 276mm rotors?
This is correct. You will need to source appropriate discs.
 
I’ve read that it’s possible to use Evo 3 rear disc setup, with redrilled stud pattern.

Anyone know how truthful this is?
 
Same brake caliper, caliper bracket and pad as fto, proton, cc gsr etc. But unsure about the bracket that bolts to the control arm, as we don't have driveshafts going through our control arms. I've only ever bought a proton rear set up including control arms etc, or, just the calipers, brackets and brake lines off of someone parting out a car.
 
Can anyone get the part number for FTO 276mm caliper, and FTO/Proton 260mm rear caliper braided lines?

I know a few people are running that setup with braided lines
 
Also, reference for anyone wanting to know what clearance is like with 15's and the twin piston 276mm front brake upgrade.

These are buddy club p1's, 15x7 +42 with a fair bit of clearance
IMG_2106.jpg

These are random 15x7 +28 wheels and as you can see they JUST clear (~1mm). I had to take off a 10g wheel weight that was stuck on top of a row of weights. They hit on the outside of the calliper as the wheel rolled round, the weights were stuck on just behind the spokes on the inside of the wheel barrel
IMG_2159.jpg

so 15's will work however it is a matter of trail and error. As you can see, more performance orientated wheels will (generally) have more space around the spokes and inside the wheel for bigger brakes
 
Just wondering if anyone’s had issues with brakes locking up, whilst running the new setup, especially the rears?

If so, any info on combatting that, such as staying with the stock 7/8” master cylinder rather than 1”?
 
Just wondering if anyone’s had issues with brakes locking up, whilst running the new setup, especially the rears?

If so, any info on combatting that, such as staying with the stock 7/8” master cylinder rather than 1”?
fronts will always looks before the rears. the distrubtion block ensure this. cant recall but theyre split like 70F/30 R so if youre locking rears....ya dun messed up
 
Just had a thought.

For rear disc brake swap, would it be possible to use FTO dust covers, caliper mounting bracket, calipers, handbrake, and then just use the 4x100 hub bearing with a Proton 4x100 rotor?

Both Proton and FTO rotors are 260mm diameter, 10mm solid disc, 41mm height. Where they differ is 4x100 with 64mm centre hole, versus 5x114.3 with 90mm centre hole.

It should be completely possible
 
Just had a thought.

For rear disc brake swap, would it be possible to use FTO dust covers, caliper mounting bracket, calipers, handbrake, and then just use the 4x100 hub bearing with a Proton 4x100 rotor?

Both Proton and FTO rotors are 260mm diameter, 10mm solid disc, 41mm height. Where they differ is 4x100 with 64mm centre hole, versus 5x114.3 with 90mm centre hole.

It should be completely possible
It wouldn't surprise, considering how Mitsubishi liked to use the parts bin for everything
 
Random question, since the facebook auslancer section is asking if the CJ brake calipers fit onto a CE?
 
Does the CH master and booster bolt straight into the CE?
I’ve just done the bigger single piston upgrade with the 256mm slotted rotors and the pedal feels very long and spongy. I’ve done a re-bleed twice but hasn’t gotten much better so hoping the bigger booster/master will fix it. I like a solid hard pedal.
 
Does the CH master and booster bolt straight into the CE?
I’ve just done the bigger single piston upgrade with the 256mm slotted rotors and the pedal feels very long and spongy. I’ve done a re-bleed twice but hasn’t gotten much better so hoping the bigger booster/master will fix it. I like a solid hard pedal.
I’m running 276mm twin piston fronts on stock ce master and it definitely does not feel spongy, I’d say you’ve either got contaminated pads/rotors, bad piston seals, re used copper banjo washers not sealing or air still in your lines, a different master isn’t going to make them feel less spongey, will just change the force required to actuate the pedals as the size of the master piston changes
 
Does the CH master and booster bolt straight into the CE?
I’ve just done the bigger single piston upgrade with the 256mm slotted rotors and the pedal feels very long and spongy. I’ve done a re-bleed twice but hasn’t gotten much better so hoping the bigger booster/master will fix it. I like a solid hard pedal.
Have you bed in your brakes?
 
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