Ok. So I have found my issue. It seams to be the front calipers jamming on.

I have purchased used tr/ts non abs pbr calipers, complete. And the dba listed number 542? Or the disc. The slotted mini disc.

They are jamming on and causing the wheel to barely spin when I turn it over by hand and noticing the brakes being on while driving.

I've pulled the caliper apart. Cleaned all the slides, regressed, pads were in correct. Are now to. I reassembled them and same issue. The piston seams all good to even moved it back and forward. Re bled and all.
I even cracked the bleeder with it jammed on to check if it was a hydraulic issue holding it on. No fluid came flying out so that's out.

Any ideas? Have I missed anything I need to do? I was aware this was bolt on.

Btw it's the same both sides so I feel like I have missed something with this conversion.
 
After more investigation it seams like the disc isnt central to the caliper and its jamming.
I can only see 2 areas that would cause this.
Either the new disc is thinner on the mounting face and not right, or the stone guard thickness and set up is interfering with the caliper mounting.

My question is, have you guys changed/cut/removed the stone guard at all to get this conversion to work?
 
After more investigation it seams like the disc isnt central to the caliper and its jamming.
I can only see 2 areas that would cause this.
Either the new disc is thinner on the mounting face and not right, or the stone guard thickness and set up is interfering with the caliper mounting.

My question is, have you guys changed/cut/removed the stone guard at all to get this conversion to work?
I bent mine out of the way
 
I did that.

I'm talking about where it sandwiches between the caliper and the knuckle mount part.

I'm thinking I have bent calipers. It's now the only logical thing I can think of. Although both sides are the same

It's safe to say I am horribly stumpt here
 
Caliper wouldnt necessarily be exactly central to the rotor. It does help, but its not a bang on thing (the pad will use about 90% of the rotor from the outside inwards).
I know when i changed the front wheel bearing the stone guard got bent out of shape, particularly in between the caliper mounting bolts. In addition, the new bearing was tight as balls, and so the hub would barely turn by hand (fresh bearing, fresh grease, etc).

Check to see exactly where/if the rotor is jambing on the caliper, you might need to chuck a breaker bar in between the wheel studs to help rotate the hub.
 
So it turns out I had seized calipers. To funny. Returned them after trying to rebuild them and got some others. Problem solved.

Thanks for the help guys
 
So it turns out I had seized calipers. To funny. Returned them after trying to rebuild them and got some others. Problem solved.

Thanks for the help guys

What a pain in the ass!! Glad its sorted
 
Something to add possibly:

An Evo X Brembo brake kit apparently bolts onto 380's. Like a straight bolt-on basically. I can't confirm this, but somethin to look into maybe? Especially if someone successfully does a 380 brake upgrade
 
Yeahhhh but since y'all do 5stud swaps, maybe will do the 302mm 380 brakes. And if you do that, maybe Evo X Brembos...

Shut up Lee :(
 
Just a little fyi for those interested.
Ch hubs into ce knuckles is a PITA.
It is not a direct fit as the ch hubs will need to be lathed down to match. How much? depends on which way you want to go about it. If you want to use a spacer or if you want to grind 2mm from the knuckle.
Also brake caliper spacing is the same ce - ch 130mm 2.4 calipers are a direct fit to mirage knuckles.

Untitled-1.jpg

CE 10mm
CH 8mm
CE 34mm

CH 38mm

Further info page 5
http://www.auslancer.com/index.php?...-mirage-suzie-sparkle.9994/page-5#post-235813
 
Yeahhhh but since y'all do 5stud swaps, maybe will do the 302mm 380 brakes. And if you do that, maybe Evo X Brembos...
Shut up Lee :(
This is more in the realms of Easy Upgrades, thats pushing custom brackets and *poo*.
 
Had a squiz at the spreadsheet again. May I add the 256mm bracket cars all had 14" minimum wheels as far as I'm aware (Proton made alloys standard on basically every model) and you could also add M21's to that list (same as GTi everything). Also Galant 294mm brakes could be in there too (and Legnum)
 
CE's also came out with 13", so the minimum is 13" for all intensive purposes.
If you can provide me with the exact model galant and legnums with years that had them, then i will add them.
M21. is it worth as aren't they a tonne less common anyway?
 
More worth it than Personas or Wiras haha. I didn't think the 13's will clear the 256mm brakes though? And pretty sure it's any 6a13tt Galant/Legnum so VR4's. Paulie could confirm
 
More worth it than Personas or Wiras haha. I didn't think the 13's will clear the 256mm brakes though? And pretty sure it's any 6a13tt Galant/Legnum so VR4's. Paulie could confirm
Actually I just looked over it and realised it was 256mm... Lol I thought I had put 13" at the stock cell above. You are right. Fixed that up.
 
Just a quick note on this, the part number for the Magna Twin Pots ABS Seal Refresher Kit (MB699456) is now obselete and unavailable. I just rang around looking for some and got told this by Mitsubishi :s
 
4605B976 is the replacement part number... weird Mitsu couldnt reference that for you. There is also a non OEM one which is AY600MT015 from "Pitwork"
 
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