Wheel Track - Control Arms, Hubs, Trailings Arms swap info

Sorry to dig up an old thread, thought it was the best place to ask it.

Still planning the suspension stage of project so i have a few questions:

I do want the manual version with the torsen type lsd though as i understand it will need to swap out the front drive shafts and hubs as the splines are different.

1- is there any real benefit in replacing the lcas in a mirage with the fto ones?

2- will the guards need flaring or modification to keep things legal? Even though wheel and rim choice will affect this as well.

*in the past i have always tried to increase track on my vehicles and even though i have driven and tracked a few fwd cars this is my first owned and daily driven so in new territory here, just not too familiar with mirage dynamics and whats best in this case
 
I haven't noticed any major difference in changing to fto lcas. I've changed them in both a track car and street car.

To fit 17x8s I had to roll the guards.
 
Does anyone have any experience with the Evo III front LCAs?
They use the better circular bushings + are made of cast iron which is much more rigid
 
No experience with E3 but I'm running E4. To run E4 you need matching hubs and 160mm bolt spacing brakes, plus evo sway bar end links, but because the evo 4 was non-wide body your track doesn't change. I'm pretty E3 hubs differ from the ce setup at the steering rack mount, but if the ball joint matches you should be able to maintain the ce hubs so you don't have this problem
 
That's a lot of effort and cost to run the Evo IV LCA and unless the aim is to run Brembos or something I'm not sure it'd be worth it.
How come you're running them?

As for the Evo III LCAs it seems that the Lancer/FTO ball joint fits (according to what I've read on the ftoaustralia.com forum) so it is an easy upgrade.

I accidentally put a tear through my ball joint rubber on one side when removing the hubs and now wondering what my best course of action to fix this is. I've seen the rubber boots for sale separately but not sure of the ball joint needs to come out for that. If it does then I'd rather replace it for a new one... or just upgrade LCAs altogether
 
As do all facelift FTO LCAs but the arm itself is made of pressed steel so the only benefit is the rear bush
 
If anybody has a set of FTO rear trailing arms sitting around. Could you take some measurements for me please!
Pic should be self explanatory .
S8300559 copy.jpg
 
Unless you are after actual measurements, I can tell you that they are the same as standard CE, Proton, Evo1-3 etc
 
I don't know the measurements but in case you haven't come across this info yet that axle is a different diameter between FTO and Lance CE. Not sure if that makes a difference to you or not
 
The standard axle stud on ce is 28mm
Fto is 30mm
Ch lancer is 30mm
If thats to which you are referring

Ill head down pickapart on monday to see if i can take some measurements of the threads
 
The standard axle stud on ce is 28mm
Fto is 30mm
Ch lancer is 30mm
If thats to which you are referring

Ill head down pickapart on monday to see if i can take some measurements of the threads

Does anyone know if a CH Lancer wheel bearing fits on an fto axle?
 
Alright here's my heartfelt contribution with regards to this control arm issue.

Disclaimer; i might not be totally right in aspects of technical know how, but i know what fits and what doesn't.

Front LCAs first. Now what fits, what doesn't.

FTO

Direct bolt on?
Yes, your current knuckles will fit in snug. Or you can even get FTO knuckles and go 5 lug.

Worth it ?

No, IMHO. Are they wider? Not sure. But seriously if you want a wider track, just slap on wider and lower offset wheels. And if you think they help your handling better, I will tell you straight in the face no. FTO lcas are pressed steel arms but thats besides the point. I don't think aluminium arms will yield you any better handling if any @ all. Material that your LCAs are made of is 1 issue if it even is an issue, your LCA lower front and rear bushings contribute to handling difference too. In this case of the FTO. the bushings are the SAME as any CA-CC, CE Mirage. And yes, i know for a fact they carry the same part numbers. For those that are doubtful, you are free to double tally on the SuperPro website.

Evo 45, even 6

Direct bolt on?

Yes and no. You will also need Evo knuckles to go. And Evo Tie rod ends. Not sure if you need the steering rods. Becoz of some turning angle on the Evo knuckles. Usage of OE Mirage tie rod ends will invite bump steer to kingdom come. Or something. I can't quite rmbr.

Worth it? : No. Yes they are aluminum construction. Yes they are stronger. Not sure if they are lighter. But that doesn't necessarily mean better handling. Too much trouble for too little gain.

In theory there are 3 benefits of Evo arms;

1st, is the is that they have added castor. But they also make your wheels seat more towards the front of your wheel arches. Not sure if anyone will benefit from this as this may contribute to wheel rub in front. Unless you are chasing the epitome of lap times or even running some big power output... or else really...

2nd, the knuckles you are forced to run with because of the different ball joint design (i read somewhere that it can be pressed out and replaced with something that will fit OE CE knuckles but information on which ball joint and what part number is non existent. But really why bother) for Evo arms run a 1 piece hub and bearing design unlike the ones we find in anything CE and older, even the older EVO123s. More lasting and durable and lesser prone to failure, or longer time in between failures?

Ahah. So therein lies a problem. you can't use the hub and bearings from the CE and older as bearing and hub are separate. Which means you are stuck with using 5x114.3, or you source the 1pc bearing/hub in 4x100 or 4x114.3 that came with JDM (CE) Mirage Cyborg RS cars, which i will elaborate more on below.

3rd, the lower front and rear bushings of the Evo arms are different from the ones on the CEs and older. This is the part IMHO that contributes the most to improved handling. Will elaborate more on this in the nxt section below.

But bear in mind though, you cannot quite reuse the brake calipers from the older cars with this knuckle, as the caliper bolt spacing is much wider on 456. So its either you go with OE brembos which forces you to at least use 17 inch wheels, or certain low offset 16"s will fit. From calculations, for 16", 8J +30 offset wheels as a general rule of thumb should fit the brembos but always trial fit first. Or the sliding 2 pot calipers that came with Evo4(same as Evo3 caliper but bigger in size, will fit 16" for sure, may fit some 15" wheels) or the sliding 2 pot caliper from Evo 456 RS. That, will fit 15" wheels for sure. Or the brakes from the car below.

Late model JDM (CE) Mirage Cyborg RS

Direct Bolt On ?

Yes. and no.

Pressed steel arms too.

Unfortunately as with the Evo456 you will need the knuckles for this car too (as the ball joint design for the knuckles is the same as Evo4-5. 6 is different, and not as good clearly, as they reverted back to the "4-5 type" for the Evo 6.5 but fundamentally time saving for Mitsubishi's WRC exploits as it made front axle servicing for the 6 a whole lot faster.)

I should note at this point that using this arm/knuckle combo allows you to retain your steering and tie rod ends. So yeah, lesser hassle.

This arm/knuckle setup will not change your castor angle. But unfortunately also uses the same wider brake caliper bolt spacing as the Evos. It also uses the same 1 pc bearing/hub design but strangely available in both 4x100 and 4x114.3.

Apparently the RS cars that come with a bigger brake option will come with 4x114.3. Otherwise the smaller brake variant has the 4x100. Something like that.

The interesting part about this arm, is that it uses the same rear lower bushing as the Evo4. On the SuperPro website, the Evo456 replacement bushing is the same part number but apparently on my copy of Mitsubishi ASA(electronic parts catalogue) only the Evo4 (CN9A) uses this bush.

ASA does not have a part number for the front lower bushing apparently as it comes with the front lower arm as 1 part so i am unable to know for sure if the front lower bushing is the same as the CE and other cars, or the Evo456. So short of obtaining an arm and measuring the bush for real i am unable to tell you that information.

I have heard of the existence of such an LCA with Evo bushing from one of the local garages i went to some years back. The tech told me that this arm comes with a round bushing in a metal frame of sorts just like an Evo bushing as opposed to the square shaped ones that come with the CE and older cars, and a very significant difference can be felt from it. I thought it was an Evo LCA they were talking about but he insisted it wasnt. Whatever mate. i didnt really bother much abt it at that time.

He was right though. it does exist. If you have to swap out to a front LCA for improved handling, this, my friends, is it. This one from the late model Cyborg RS is the one you are looking for. Evo bushes (at least for the rear).

Rear Trailing arms

All the CE variants from CJ1A to CJ5A share the same trailing arm part number, or most part numbers. The FTO trailing arm has a different part number. The important bit to note, is that all CE Mirages, FTO and Evo3, share the same main trailing arm bush part number. So imho the FTO trailing arm doesn't do squat to better handling. If handling is what you are after. Get wider wheels/tires.

Rear LCA

Apparently there are a few part numbers for CE LCAs. Most are shared with FTO. So no, FTO LCAs are not wider.

Rear LCA bushes

Aha, this is also another interesting part. According to ASA, all CA-CC, CE Mirages, Evo123456 all share the same part numbers for the inner and outer bushings for the rear LCA.

FINALLY.....

To concur. Don't be too caught up on the material strength for LCAs. if there is a difference, between pressed steel and aluminum, you won't feel it; Its more of in the bushes and in your suspension/tire setups than LCA material. Most times these frankenstein LCA swaps and what not is just hurling yourself down a rabbit hole; neverending. So if you want, or must have better front LCAs, get the ones from the JDM late model Mirage Cyborg RS. They are the only ones worth the trouble. With the least drawbacks. Surely Mitsubishi wouldnt make it that way if they are not better?

PS: Mods if this is worthwhile information, pls stickie. and also feel free to correct tech errors if any and also my grammar.
 
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FTO Version R arms are also the beez neez.

Proper spherical rear bush, not the big blocky type.

VerR only. Normal Fto is typical block
 
From what I've read it's not only the Version R that has the spherical rear bush but all facelifted FTOs.
Not sure how true this is as I've never seen it.

I am also not sure what the benefit is to a spherical rear bush compared to the block one. Other than the fact that there is less material and hence less flex possibly?

Another front LCA that I have read fits (and if it does then it is the best one to use) is the Evo III one. It has the spherical rear bush and is also cast iron construction. Might be heavier but should flex less (are these things noticeable though?).

As far as the dog bone rear control arms the FTO (and CJ4A) ones are stronger as they are a tube type whereas the Lancer ones are pressed steel. As per above though this just doesn't seem like something anyone would ever notice
 
From what I've read it's not only the Version R that has the spherical rear bush but all facelifted FTOs.
Not sure how true this is as I've never seen it.

I am also not sure what the benefit is to a spherical rear bush compared to the block one. Other than the fact that there is less material and hence less flex possibly?

Another front LCA that I have read fits (and if it does then it is the best one to use) is the Evo III one. It has the spherical rear bush and is also cast iron construction. Might be heavier but should flex less (are these things noticeable though?).

As far as the dog bone rear control arms the FTO (and CJ4A) ones are stronger as they are a tube type whereas the Lancer ones are pressed steel. As per above though this just doesn't seem like something anyone would ever notice

According to my ASA there are 2 part numbers for the front LCA. (bear in mind i am just looking at DE3A)

the part number for the arms that tallies with Version R chassis codes is also available for the GR cars. And the year(s) is stated as from 97-00.

the other part number which i am assuming is the one wif the "block" bushes is available for other chassis, and also run from 97-00.

for '97-'00, GPX, Nakaya Tune, GX Sport cars and everything else.
 
The other difference that the FTO LCAs have is some have sway bar mounts and others don't.
eg, the Version R and possibly GR the swaybar mounts onto the LCA whereas the GPX it mounts onto the damper.

ftoaustralia.com has these details somewhere if anyone needs to know
 
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