How to pick cams from valve timing

91GSR

Member
I have searched and searched for days to find this info and I need help to choose cams as I am doing a G4CP swap into my CB Lancer and I want the best cams possible from what I may have and need someone very knowledgeable to have an educated answer.
I would like the cams to be numbered from best to worst so I can pick from what I have.

4G61
I should have the EE cams

Intake
Open degrees BTDC
(E) 16 (F) 26
Close degrees ABDC
(E) 48 (F) 38
Duration degrees
(E) 244 (F) 244

Exhaust
Open degrees BBDC
(E) 43 (F) 53
Close degrees ATDC
(E) 17 (F) 7
Duration degrees
(E) 240 (F) 240

4G63
Unsure which my G4CP has at the moment it either has AA, BC, DC or EA

Intake
Open degrees BTDC
(A) 26 (B) 21 (D) 21 (E) 16
Close degrees ABDC
(A) 46 (B) 43 (D) 51 (E) 48
Duration degrees
(A) 252 (B) 244 (D) 252 (E) 244
Exhaust
Open degrees BBDC
(A) 55 (C) 57 (C) 57 (A) 55
Close degrees ATDC
(A) 3 (C) 15 (C) 15 (A) 9
Duration degrees
(A) 238 (C) 252 (C) 252 (A) 244
 
Need a little more info mate. What goals do you have? What will it be used for? Will it be a daily? Occasional track? Full track or balls out drag car?

What cams you get is all dirived from what goals you want.

Of course supporting mods will need to be in place to even make use of any cam change.

Throw us some more info and i will advise best as possible
 
At the moment just get it going well until I rebuild the motor (only got 109k km on it) with forged internals to run a turbo. Will be a daily with some track use here and there. Supporting mods so far won't be much due to future plans so I'll probably do extractors with a free flowing exhaust, remove the rubber intake pipe for a smooth stainless steel pipe with the baffle removed from the air box, adjustable fpr to get it all in check if need be (I'm getting a AEM uego kit) and a catch can just to keep an eye on everything. Mostly want the motor running right while I can keep it in check as much as possible until the rebuild.
 
Spending money on NA mods is all well and good but pointless longterm if you want to turbo it. But that all depends on your timeframe too.

Turbo cams will be different from NA because you cant have the duration of the cams to big. Whereas NA cams can go higher, but the higher you go the idle quality is affected as is your fuel usage.

RPW on here would be your best bet to speak to about can options because its an area they specialize in. Generally though for an NA street setup you wouldnt go past a stage 2 cam. Stage 1 can be upgraded usually without upgrading your valvetrain whereas stage 2 its basically a must for reliability. You wont get any benfit from any cam change however with some sort of computer tuning. Again RPW can help there.

Its up to you and a question of how much you want to spend. Just remember what you do now and what you spend will affect your plans for a rebuild.

I would just make the engine breathe a little better with a free flowing exhaust, air filter and cold air intake, nice service with quality oils and plugs and leads and drive that and save your money for your rebuild. Any sort of modification for more power is ultimately a sacrifice in reliability at the end of the day even if its small
 
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