CEL While Driving

cesario

cesario

Well-Known Member
Lifetime Premium Member
Hey All,

Over the past few days i have had the CEL come on and off as im driving and it has me a bit concerned.
I havnt changed / modified anything over the past few weeks so it shouldnt be caused by something I recently did.

I did notice that when the CEL does come on, i get an intermittent power loss as if you just turned on the AC and when the light blinks off its as if you turned off the AC. I dont hear the compressor kick in so its not the AC, its just feels like the same power loss.

I have checked under the bonnet for any obvious damage or out of the norm stuff but everything looks good.
Does anyone have any ideas of stuff I can check over?
I have a driving trip planned in two weeks so an apple sticker over the CEL light might be the quickest fix

1160280746.jpg
 
Get the car scanned to read the codes. It sounds like it may be an oxygen sensor fault but hard to say without reading it's brain.
 
In the OBD2 port, wedge a paperclip in pins 1 and 4 to put it into diagnostics code.

It will start flashing, count the number of longs flashes, and the number of short flashes. This will give you an error code
Which you can look up here.

http://www.troublecodes.net/mitsu/


I would have a guess at something like knock detection, or MAF/TPS error, something which will make it drop into the low octane map or limp mode, which will produce reduced power.
 
Trondabron said:
I would have a guess at something like knock detection, or MAF/TPS error, something which will make it drop into the low octane map or limp mode, which will produce reduced power.
Click to expand...

Do what @Trondabron said, id also be leaning towards MAF/TPS and the power loss is from limp mode from that.
 
Oh cheers guys, Will give this a try tonight.
I really hope its something simple / easy / cheap to fix
 
Ok, really surprised that worked
Just having a little trouble working out which code it matches up to
Let me know what you think
 
Mines actually doing the same. It's not dropping power though from what I've found the light just stays on until I switch the car off and on again and it goes away. Does the CEL have to be present on the dash for the fault code to show up from the obd2 bridging trick?
 
7R3N7 said:
Mines actually doing the same. It's not dropping power though from what I've found the light just stays on until I switch the car off and on again and it goes away. Does the CEL have to be present on the dash for the fault code to show up from the obd2 bridging trick?
Click to expand...

Nope, it get saved into the ECU(?) memory. Disconnecting the battery usually clears the code, and i think you can clear it via the OBD plug as well
 
Youve got 2 codes.

Its code 14 and code 23.

14 is TPS fault, and 23 is cam shaft sensor fault. Check one or both are plugged in properly etc, and diagnose from there.
 
Ah cool stuff Tronda!
Looks like I was reading it as one code so thats why I had no idea what was going on.

Iv been doing some reading while at work today and from a lot evo forums it appears to be a fairly common issue with the termination points getting lose over time.
Looks like merrill performance makes shields for it too
IMG00111.jpg


I think the TPS fault might be a previously known issue so I might give everything a once over tonight.
Can removing the battery clear the CEL codes? id like to give everything a once over, clear the CEL codes and run it again to see what codes are still valid
 
It will clear the codes, But as stated above if it's Throttle position and Cam angle sensor. You may need to have those replaced. But first check connection, press the connectors firmly (not too hard) and see if they press in any further, If not pull them out and clean the contacts with metholated spirits then plug them back in if the CEL persists after a reset. Then replace sensors, best thing to do is to get the code read because the standard flash codes could be flashing two codes related too one error like a lean misfire or some other error that the ECU has thrown, most places will read a code for nothing others will if you see a tech walk out with a snap on diagnostic system they are probably going too charge you for use.
 
drinkwater said:
It will clear the codes, But as stated above if it's Throttle position and Cam angle sensor. You may need to have those replaced. But first check connection, press the connectors firmly (not too hard) and see if they press in any further, If not pull them out and clean the contacts with metholated spirits then plug them back in if the CEL persists after a reset. Then replace sensors, best thing to do is to get the code read because the standard flash codes could be flashing two codes related too one error like a lean misfire or some other error that the ECU has thrown, most places will read a code for nothing others will if you see a tech walk out with a snap on diagnostic system they are probably going too charge you for use.
Click to expand...

First code is actually 43 ABS Sensor
 
drinkwater said:
First code is actually 43 ABS Sensor
Click to expand...

Its not code 43. Your reading it backwards. Its long pulse first, then short pulses.

Wait for the CEL flash to cycle, it will go back to 14, then 23. The first code is always hard to read because when you turn the ignition on, the CEL comes on and goes away even without any errors, is that a count or not? Hard to say. So always wait for it to cycle.
 
Trondabron said:
Its not code 43. Your reading it backwards. Its long pulse first, then short pulses.

Wait for the CEL flash to cycle, it will go back to 14, then 23
Click to expand...
Trondabron said:
Its not code 43. Your reading it backwards. Its long pulse first, then short pulses.

Wait for the CEL flash to cycle, it will go back to 14, then 23. The first code is always hard to read because when you turn the ignition on, the CEL comes on and goes away even without any errors, is that a count or not? Hard to say. So always wait for it to cycle.
Click to expand...

You're right! sorry about that, I didn't realise there was a pulse at the beginning now it makes sense. It is both of the codes originally mentioned. :p
 
drinkwater said:
You're right! sorry about that, I didn't realise there was a pulse at the beginning now it makes sense. It is both of the codes originally mentioned. :p
Click to expand...
dont worry mate, that caught me out too.

Ok, since the CEL light comes on and off its a bit hard to replicate the issues so this arvo I re-seated several plugs, my loom in the engine bay doesnt look in the best shape with most of the cable wrap (not the actual sleeving) stuff disintegrated just by touching so I will re-do it all this weekend with shiny new stuff.
I also (hopefully) cleared any codes by disconnecting the battery and i will take it up the highway tomorrow to see if I can trigger the CEL again which should help moving forward in troubleshooting.

Found some really useful info over at evoireland regarding this kinda stuff which has helped too
 
Ok, reseating all connectors didn't fix anything (worth a shot though) , so reckon a replacement cam shaft sensor would be the way to go?
I was gonna get one from Meek but can't seem to find it on their site.
 
ok,
Just to make sure im on the same page since I cant tell the difference between the steering wheel and the rear bumer,
Sensor #1 Cam position sensor, reckon thats the one?
fskdguwd2.PNG
 
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