Need some alignment nerds

97ceGLXI

97ceGLXI

Member
hey guys
I haven't posted much in a while,
I've just had some RE003's fitted and a wheel alignment done, looking for some opinions on my readout to tell me what looks good and what doesn't. I want to go back and get the front redone due to the steering wheel not being straight and im wondering if theres any suggestions to give to the fellas at my local bridgestone.

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Thanks Guys
 
Caster and camber settings are good. I would just ask for them to evan up the front toe in side to side and go for two mm toe in total. Otherwise looks pretty good. Is the car on stock suspension or something a bit more exotic.
 
I'm on BC golds, fairly low
I forgot to mention the car does have a tendency to veer to the left, he said that was due to the caster
Does that sound right?
 
What shop did the alignment out of curiosity?
I'd take out rear camber too if you can as it isn't really necessary considering the relatively low front camber. Though you might be at the limit without buying adjustable control arms
 
Having both castor and camber even (as per your printout) will end up with the car pulling left due to the road crown, if the coilovers have camber tops you should be able to pull some camber out of the rhs or add a little to the lhs to compensate for this, half a degree difference should all but eliminate the left pull without causing uneven tyre wear.
 
It was Bridgestone in beaconsfield.
That was as little camber as possible for the rear without going to adjustable control arms, I can't seem to find adjustables anywhere.
I'm also thinking of asking for 1mm total toe in at the front.

I've been looking at the antilift kits that increase castor, would these be of any Benefit?
 
Benefit would depend on what you're looking for. Does the car feel too light in the steering? increased castor adds more 'self-centering' effect to the steering which will make it feel a little more stable at speed, and also increases neg camber on the outside wheel when you apply lock (good for spirited driving as it adds camber at the same time the sidewall of your tyre is deforming during cornering) but if you're just trying to make the car drive straight I don't think the antilift kit will help, it seems to add a fixed amount of extra castor with no prevision to fine tune or adjust it in any way.
 
I do a lot of spirited driving and yes the steering does feel very light, and I would like to reduce the static camber.
Okay so what I'm looking for from what I'm reading is:
Even up front toe setting and get some slight toe in.
Front caster / antilift bushes, reduce static camber.
Find some adjustable rear control arms to reduce rear camber.

I know this is dragging on but feel free to give me some more suggestions. Quite new to the world of suspension geometry
 
If it is pulling left try swapping the front tyres from side to side. If you adjust camber at any point you will change toe so be aware .
 
^ this is also a really good idea for eliminating variables, some times radial pull from the tyres can be a contributor to a car not tracking straight. As frosty said any camber changes will effect toe so doing a quick wheel swap left to right at home can rule out tyres before you alter the alignment again.
Trick is to set castor first as this effects everything, then camber, then toe last.


Hope even some of this is a help, I was a qualified wheel aligner for a few years and nothing *poo*s me more than my car pulling left or the steering wheel not being centred.
 
You don't want toe in on a front wheel drive car, you should always have toe out.
The reason is that under acceleration the wheels want to move forward and the car wants to stay where it is, so the wheels start to pull in giving you more toe in.
I run 1mm toe out per side on my track cars and road cars and they handle fine.
By the way. I do all my own wheel alignments with a string, if its good enough for formula 1 guys to use a string then its good enough for me.
 
Toe in and camber need to be adjusted in relation to each other and the only way to know the exact amount of each is to do some on road testing over a few kms. 4 degrees of neg and 0 toe in is very different to 1 deg of neg and 0 toe in. What I'm saying is there are many ways to wheel align a car and the tyre wear will show you results. Good luck working it out, it maybe that you get on a first name basis with your alignment man or buy yourself a ball of string and a tape measure.
 
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