Lancer 4G93 Track build

So I found a FTO at a wreckers. Still has the sway bar and all brakes! What exactly do I take?? And how much would it all be worth so they don't rip me off?

For 5 stud swap take the entire front knuckles and the whole rear trailing arm and hand brake cables, brake master/booster optional but recommended

For just the brakes take the front calipers and I think the rear calipers as well as the rear caliper brackets and the handbrake cables, hopefully someone else can confirm that the rears will work on a 4 stud car, again brake master/booster optional but recommended

For the sway bar take the bar, the chassis mount brackets, the end links and the lower control arms

As for prices it's hard to say, others might be able to chime in with their own personal experience

When I remove the FTO knuckles will everything match up with my lancers knuckles? (Tie rods, CV, stuff like that)?
I'm thinking if I can take it all at once, it'll hurt my pocket now but will save trying to find a second wreck and hopefully he'll give me a good price for everything together
So I'll grab the front and rear 5 stud hubs as well and brake Calipers, handbrake lines, rear lower contol arm (with sway bar link), sway bar, body mounts and brake booster as well
Anything I'm missing??

And out of curiosity, do FTO seat rail match with the lancer CE body? Because the seat look sweet!

You will also need 5 stud rims.

Hahahaha sweet
I'll get the parts tomorrow but I won't be installing them until I have everything else I want/need (Like 5 stud rims)
And then I'll get some mates over and do a big build weekend

Rails don't fit in standard. I had some but they were on CC lancer rails. No idea how that process happened, but it's possible.

Thanks Hugh

Steering rack tie rods need to be shortened around 5-10mm from memory to fit the longer FTO knuckle arms

Sweet, thanks again for the help again

Front sway bar worth taking if it's got one or is that a bit of an overkill?

AFAIK Stock FTO is similar or the same as stock Lancer, though best off asking Res

FTO swaybar is smaller than lancer stock swaybar, its a downgrade.

So an update


Parts I scavanged from the FTO

- Front knuckles including twin piston brakes and rotors (276mm)
- Rear Trailing Arms (With the hubs)
- Lower Control Arms
- 19mm sway bar and body mounts (Bushing and links are f*cked) Recommendations?
- Single piston rear brakes and rotors (260mm)
- Handbrake cables (I have a CE coupe)
- (I forgot the end section of the rear brake lines (from body mount to rear calipers) to replace the drum brake ends. I'll be back in Brisbane to pick them up in 3 weeks and I should probably get the brake booster too right?


Now I need people's opinions
4 lugs or 5?..

I can keep the 4 lugs, upgrade the front brakes (I'm assuming the FTO twin-pistons bolt up??) Then follow the MCM boys and convert drums to discs, swap the LCA's and install the sway bar?
Then I don't need to buy new wheels and tyres
But will Mini rotors fit or do I need to redrill new FTO rotors? Can someone who has 276mm brakes on their 4 lug CE tell me what to buy/do?

If I swap everything it would be a lot more work, more expensive and would take me longer to find and buy rims and good tyres
What are actual advantages of going 5 lug?..
I'm happy with my 4x100 rims atm

I'm leaning 60/40 towards keeping 4 lugs

I would really love to hear what you guys think?

We run Cooper S rotter on our track car but use AP 4 spot water cooled caliper. The Mini rotters fit straight onto the 100x4 with no modification.

I run magna 276 rotors and had them redrilled to 4 100 also machined up hub centric rings in alloy the magna twin pot callipers bolt up .
And I used the original mirage hoses or the magna ones can't recall. my car is track only and I run ferodo 2500 pads. You can keep the rear drums with these fronts no or problems.

Superpro or similar polyurethane bushes are what you want.
You don't NEED the fto booster and master cyl but an upgrade is an upgrade.
Buy braided lines for front and rear when you do this. Don't worry about going back for fto lines.
Get magna or fto or evo 1-3 rotors redrilled to 4x100. Mini rotors are already at the minimum thickness of the previously mentioned rotors when new. Yes they work but don't skimp out if you're going this far.
If going 5stud just use fto/magna/evo rotors. They're all the same pcd.
How big are your wheels? You need spacious 15s or 16s minimum to clear the brakes. If they're small go 5stud. If they're already big enough and you like them just stay with 4x100. I stayed 4x100 with this brake setup and I'm glad I did. No *fudge*ing around with hubs and racks and clearances and other crap. The advantage of going 5stud is better wheel choices but you already have ones you like so *fudge* it.

frosty7 said:

I run magna 276 rotors and had them redrilled to 4 100 also machined up hub centric rings in alloy the magna twin pot callipers bolt up .
And I used the original mirage hoses or the magna ones can't recall. my car is track only and I run ferodo 2500 pads. You can keep the rear drums with these fronts no or problems.

Click to expand...

Why do you use the Magna 5 stud rotors instead of Evo III 4 stud to redrill?
Do you find your braking setup works well on track?


To the OP, 4 or 5 stud is your choice. 4 stud you will need to use the Mini rotors (which as you would've been told are 2mm too skinny but still work).
If you want to run 15" wheels then I recommend you stay 4 stud as you won't find many 15" wheels in 5 stud PCD

The magna 276 rotors are the same as the evo ones as far as I know. Rda brand redrilled cost 35 bucks each and same amount to redrill. I ran around for a couple of years in the nsw supersprint series.
Brakes have always been brilliant even with the original m cylinder brake hoses and rear drums.
I have done about ten days out on one set of ferodo 2500 pads and the same rotors. Recently I've upgraded to a rear disc setup from a cs lancer with a hawk pad but only because I bought a crashed lancer and had the parts in the back yard I'm not sure yet if there is any performance increase but time will tell. Quality pads are the biggest upgrade i believe.

Who redrilled them for you?
No warp issues with the RDA rotors?

Specialised brake and clutch in Penrith and no problem's with run-out. They can slot the rotors too for more cost but I've not bothered with slotting. Any decent brake shop will be able to do the redrilling.