Mirage 4g63t swap build parts info/list compile.

Ilus1v

Member
OK so I'm putting my hand up for help with this now and I'll TRY to keep this as short as possible, I know a few blokes around here have done it, but I still can't seem to source a solid supply of info on it after atleast six months of on and off researching, if it exists somewhere please feel free to push me in that direction.
I am an X mechanic so much of the work etc I can manage myself, rewiring gives me the absolute s##ts and any that I have done on this car so far doesn't match any guides I have found lol but I managed in the end.

So, I have a ce Mirage with a 1.5 on its last legs, I also have a 4g63t from an Evo VIII GSR sitting in my shed.
With partner approval completed, 2019 is the year I seek to get this pairing underway. Once done, I plan on doing a full write up and parts list sheerly because I can't find one and I would hope it could help others in a similar position.
A couple of dilemmas I have are....
I do not wish to widen the Mirage track, I also do not have the keys from the Evo 8 the engine, loom and ecu came from leaving me with the idea a haltech would solve this issue?? But, which haltech to get? Something that can stick with both wire looms?
OK that would resolve the starting, I IMAGINE evo IV drive shafts would alleviate the need to widen the track, then will they squeeze into my fto hubs ?
Parts still left to get:
Gearbox and transfer or a fwd gearbox from? (whatever bolts up)
Somewhere down the road awd conversion will happen, but for now I would rather not lock a transfer to fwd unless I have to.
Turbo piping and cooler - piping is easy, however need a nice neatly fitting NOT obvious cooler is a +
I've considered buying an Evo IV front cut to get bits I need and reselling the VIII, but even in that case I'm sure there will be custom bits I need and contacts I'll need to make to buy them.
Sorry if this seems like ramble, knowing my engine is letting go is stressful coming into this time of year. Money side of things 2k at a time is what I am told is a hard limit for her, but what she don't know won't hurt her... Cus a cut would be 4k atleast I'm sure and yeah who is a decent supply for those?
Anyway, finally thank you in advance for any info or direction any one can provide me.
 
I cant help you with a guide or any technical info on the swap, but I can tell you that if you wish to use the stock evo8 ecu, it is very possible to remove or recode the imob to a different key. Anyone with a tactrix like myself can do this. Probably smart to use an after market imobilser if you disable the one in the ecu.
 
That is extremely handy to know thanks.
The car has a separate c/lock and imob atm, but imob isn't wired in, making the above a good option.
 
Don’t quote me on it but I think I’ve read that a 4g69 fwd box bolts up to a 4g63
Basically any haltech/stand alone ecu would work as they are fully programmable from my knowledge (haltech elite 1500 would be nice)
 
Would be happy to lay out the money for one of those myself on the grounds I'm assured full tuneability for smaller exhaust and whatever future mods etc, I would suppose there may be other sensors to input to give it the best impact.
Shall hunt for info on 69 box and see what I can find and share it here. Unless someone beats me to it lol.
 
Ecu: standard evo ecu. Immobilizer unlocked. No need for aftermarket

Gearbox:
Any evo4-9 5 speed, any evo4-6 transfer case. Best option to weld up the transfer and put a plate across the now useless rear driveshaft component. You’ll need evo4 shafts. I am 99.6% sure they’re fine to go into FTO hubs.

or FWD option:

use a 4g64/69 gearbox. Pretty sure 4g64 Magna is 25spline which means you can use oem CV’s.

Ch lancer 4g69 box is definitely 27spline so you’ll need matching CH passenger side and hope the 2 peice driver side will bolt up to the 63 block. Otherwise: FTO facelift manual non LSD single peice shaft for the driveside.

Downside is you’ll need a high mount turbo so the intake piping will clear the clutch slave on the fwd boxes OR run an concentric slave in the box OR relocate the slave with bracket away from the front of the box, more toward the chassis rail and push/pull activation lever.

034E4DF8-AB6F-49E1-BEA4-534D12AF9D3E.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Thank you heaps! that right there is the most informative and down to earth post I have been able to find on gearboxes thus far regarding this.
Gives some confidence that I can run this without ruining parts that are expensive or otherwise getting harder to find.
 
No dramas! I can understand how frustrating it can be at times to find info

Go hunt down a box and start the test fitting. That’ll determine the hardest bit: gearbox fitment. The rest is relatively easy in comparison. You’ll need the flywheel and clutch and (possibly starter motor) that match the box too to be safe.

(Although it’s a bit spendy: lsd. Get one. You can always resell if/when you do Awd. Just need to select which box you’ll use and determine the spline count required)

Wiring: start trawling the net to find out how guys that have done mivec conversion into evo4-7’s have done it. Might need a full re loom or maybe just a few extra wires and repin to suit. EvoM or evo Oz forums are probably a good places to look.
 
63 swap is pretty straight forward, gearbox issues Paul has covered perfectly. Any questions pm, have done a few swaps in my time
 
What are the best options as far as sourcing the Evo engines/front cuts?

Can’t vouch for “best” but I do know that Evolution Racing Spares aka Jimmy Evo in western syd, always has a supply or can get them in at a very reasonable speed and does delivery anywhere.

Be good to know who uses who, as it’s not an easy thing to google.
 
I'm wondering whether for a track oriented car would a CM5A swap be better?

Not too sure what the weight difference between the 4G93 and 4G63 is though
 
Cm5a maybe...they’re rare though.


4g69(and g-box) + Kia DOHC Head + td05 + mild evo cams would be my box ticker
 
4G69 has pretty thin rods but yes that seems like a good way to go around things.
Super responsive I'd expect.

You can find 4G63 heads too which I assume must flow better
 
4G69 has pretty thin rods but yes that seems like a good way to go around things.
Super responsive I'd expect.

You can find 4G63 heads too which I assume must flow better

Issue with the g63 heads is that the comp ratio goes through the roof even for n/a. So then youve gotta build the bottom end.
 
Back
Top